The thirty-minute hike to Kelimutu’s summit seemed to take longer than the half hour trek the itinerary promised. I was excited to see the volcano and my mind was racing with images of red hot lava and black volcanic rocks. I had never been to see a volcano from above before and I had no idea what that horrible smell was which had been slowly annoying my olfactory senses at the bottom of the hill. By the time we were halfway to Kelimutu's summit the smell was in full assault mode.

The guide asked our group if we noticed a smell getting stronger. “Are you kidding? I can feel my face melting” I nearly said out loud. He explained that it was the smell of sulfur and it will get stronger the closer we are to the volcano. By which point, he assured us, the smell would not be as intense because our senses would have gotten used to it. Sure enough, when we reached our destination the smell subsided in intensity.

The lakes reminded me of an artist’s color palette with three blotches of paint. According to local legend, the colors are a result of the different moods of the spirits dwelling in the lakes. A giant mood ring, now there is a concept. To the west is the blue Lake of Old People, Tiwi Ata Mbupu. It was a dark blue and when the clouds passed overhead it seemed to almost turn black. The Enchanted Lake, Tiwu Ata Polo, was to the east and displayed a red color. Tiwo Nua Muri Kooh Tai, the Lake of Young Men and Maidens, lies in between Ata Mbupu and Tiwu Ata Polo and is the most striking green. These colors are the result of a combination of volcanic minerals and oxygen, the varying levels of which have been known to change colors over time. The best time to see the lakes is during sunrise during which the different shades of color can be witnessed. For best results, hope the lake spirits are in a good mood.

Labels: Adventure Travel, Destinatons, Ecotourism