Colliding Continents
For The Adventurer Within
Sunday, December 30, 2007
Little Hidden Dreams
Jazz in the summer and ice-skating in the winter, all in the backdrop of beautiful sculptures. One of Washington, DC’s best kept secrets is a few blocks south of the Chinatown Metro station on the corner of 7th and Madison. It is known as The National Gallery of Art Sculpture Garden and is the site of Jazz in the Garden during the warmer months and the Sculpture Garden ice-skating rink in the winter.

Live jazz pours over the Sculpture Garden every Friday from May to September, as DC locals enjoy cocktails and a light dinner. Sangria is the popular drink amongst the younger crowd and is served at the Pavilion Café along with other beverages and food. Some chose to sit at the tables but a majority prefer to lay out on their blankets surrounding the beautiful fountain, enjoying the artistic surroundings. 17 pieces of work are placed throughout the garden amongst beautiful flowering trees and shrubs. Jazz in the Garden starts at 5PM and ends at 8:30PM. Admission is free so arrive early to get a good spot, the best ones go quick. In September the jazz subsides and the garden prepares for a change in season.

The late September heat makes way for winter and The Sculpture Garden turns into a winter dream. The walk down 7th St. early in the evening away from the lights of Chinatown, against the waves of tourists full from museum hoarding, is reassuring once the lights in the garden can be seen. From 10AM-7PM on Mondays through Thursdays, 10AM-9PM on Fridays through Saturdays, and 11AM-9PM on Sundays the ice rink allows DC locals to step into a dream.

Stepping towards the booth, excited looks appear on the faces of couples and families as they prepare to enter the rink. Everyone is eager to fork up $7 for admission and $3 to rent skates. The rink itself is what used to be the water fountain during the warmer months. Lights are strung up between light posts and stepping onto the ice seems like stepping onto the set of a romantic movie or perhaps even a fond childhood memory for one of the many children laughing and holding hands.

The sculptures look as if they are laughing and commenting on the skaters as they whizz by. The fresh air adds a little rouge to everyone’s cheeks and the stars add to the magic. Warm coffee and hot chocolate from the Pavilion Café completes the experience, warming up feet and easing the sores on the rear ends of many novice skaters.

At the end of the day, walking toward Chinatown, a sense of accomplishment and calm takes over as the knowledge of finding a real piece of DC in the maelstrom of tourists and monuments settles in.

Saturday, December 29, 2007
Snuggle Time on the Rocks
This winter maybe you would prefer to keep things cool, all day and all night. Ice hotels have been around for a while now, so I decided to look for an alternative to the alternative. Why not take a step towards going native in the snow, and what better model to use than what the Inuit people have already provided; igloo life.

Instead of staying in an ice hotel, check out some igloo villages and enjoy a dip in a hot tub, surrounded in snow before snuggling up in a sleeping bag and calling it a night. Igloo villages can be found in the mountains of Switzerland and Germany. Finland, Canada and Alaska have their own igloo hotels as well. Whichever winter wonderland you choose it is guaranteed to be a unique experience. After all, how many times do you get to sleep in an actual igloo?

Ice hotels are built to look like what a modern hotel would generally look like. These igloo hotels, on the other hand cater more toward the adventurous at heart but does not sacrifice services at all. The igloo hotels are made entirely out of 100% ice and snow. The activities in these ice villages include winter activities such as snowshoeing, sledding matches and ice-sculpting classes. Thermal mats, sleeping bags and sheepskin rugs are all included in your nightly rate.

If you are interested in adding a little more adventure to your winter vacation, go to HostelBookers.com to look for the igloo near you.












Photos: © wwww.hostelbookers.com
Friday, December 28, 2007
Round 1, Goa
The Indian government’s plans to build industrial parks in the Goa area has agitated opposition parties and environmental groups to the point that these organizations set Friday, December 28th as a deadline for tourists to leave Goa. Opposition groups and environmentalists foresee their protests turning violent and have been urging tourists to leave. Travelers have taken heed of the potential violence and significant numbers are leaving Goa in order to avoid the potential confrontation between the government and opposition parties.

Secretary of Goa’s Movement Against SEZ (Special Economic Zones - where the construction of the industrial parks in question will take place), is quoted saying “No one wants to harm the tourists but we cannot assure our agitation would be peaceful…We are requesting them to leave Goa by December 28th as protests may turn ugly in the days to come.”

Hotels are experiencing significant amounts of cancellations, almost forty percent just in the past two days. The local hotel industry is begging the government to intervene.

This is another case in point as to the Indian government’s inability to balance environmental concerns and tourism revenue management. As I mentioned in my previous posting, Chop it Down! Use it Once, it seems as if though President Patil’s government does not care. The tensions in Goa highlights the importance of having an environmentally conservative political platform, its impacts on tourism revenue and sustainability in many of today’s tourism hotspots.

Thursday, December 27, 2007
Chop em' Down! Use it Once!
Wandoor, in the Andaman Islands, is home to one of the most environmentally protected areas in India, so why not build a helipad on it? At least 60 trees have been chopped down in order to accommodate President Patil’s helicopter, transporting the president and 10 family members during their tour of the islands. The helipad was built to cut down travel time by forty minutes, reasonable? Not so much.

The irony is that she toured the islands in order to hand off 200 eco-friendly homes to victims of the 2004 tsunami. It would seem a bit counter intuitive to cut down trees in an environmentally protected area for a helipad in order to facilitate giving away eco-friendly housing.

With many tourism officials of the world promoting eco-tourism it seems as if President Patil decided not to join in. In addition to creating a helipad, two tourist resorts have issued cancellation notices to tourists in order to accommodate the President and her family members.

If you take a look at this from a pure tourism revenue perspective, it does not make sense, from an environmental/sustainability perspective it does not either, and even from a public relations standpoint it has little value. Perhaps this is why when asked, the construction company contracted denied damage to the environment and why spokespersons from the two resorts were “not aware” that cancellation notices were sent out.

Tuesday, December 25, 2007
Falling In Love Again
Hello!

I used to live in Thailand in the late 90’s and for me it was the greatest experience of my life in addition to being the catalyst for my travel addiction. I have noticed a significant amount of development there and I can’t say that I am sad at how things have changed because it would be selfish and unrealistic of me to not accept it. I do like to recognize them, learn and find my new adventure. It usually takes a big event to recognize that changes have settled in, and this winter in Thailand is just that saturation point.

Southeast Asia has always been a hotspot, but it has only been recently that the “Tigers” have figured out how to package and streamline their respective tourism industries. This marketing push is a direct consequence of the 1997 crisis in Southeast Asia when the foreign investment plug was pulled. Realizing the economic impact of foreign direct investment, countries which generate a significant amount of revenue from tourism decided that they needed to “push the product.” Thailand’s campaign, “Amazing Thailand,” was very successful and turned the country around in a matter of three years.

Christmas 2007 will prove to be a record season for Thai tourism. Long known for being a tourism hub, all the factors for Thailand to have a record year have been in place. People know about it and all of its attractions, therefore it is trusted. The currency still gives westerners a significant cost advantage especially if you are from Europe. In addition to plain old tourism, medical tourism is in full bloom as well. Bangkok has a top medical facility which rivals any western facility in quality, accommodation and price. With all of the drivers of profitability in place I would be surprised if Thailand didn’t have a great winter season.

Flights to Bangkok from Washington, DC were going from the high two-thousands for economy seats well into the mid six-thousands. If you are in Switzerland you would be hard pressed to find tickets at all. Oh, and by the way these prices were quoted in early November. One of my contacts that managed to catch a flight to Thailand and is currently in Phuket, says that it is an absolute mad house. In terms of real estate, prices have increased significantly since the vacuum that was created after the Tsunami in 2004. What this translates to, is an increase in prices and a restructuring of hotels, resorts and accommodation. Bigger and better = more tourists.

A significant amount of untouched places which I used to travel to have now been heavily developed. Full moon parties are full on circus attractions and one island after another is being re-molded. You know it is pretty bad when the national weather service tells you when the climate will be perfect for a full moon party. Despite this, it is good to see the positive impacts these developments have had on the Thai people and economy. It is also an indicator for me to look elsewhere.

Laos is my number one choice at the moment. Although it is a communist country it is opening up significantly and being a communist state has deterred many ‘safe-haven’ seekers. Only since the early 1990’s has it abandoned its isolationist position and has been promoting itself as a new tourism destination.

The beautiful mountainous , heavily forested landscape is the setting for many beautiful tribes and massive Buddhist ruins. The best part is that having been opening up to the world for less than two decades, the tourism infrastructure has not been solidified. At best both the infrastructure and services are at a basic level. This means; not a lot of tourists here at all. This is not to say that you cannot find your five star hotels and exquisite restaurants, they can be found in the capitol, Vientiane. As far as I am concerned, they can stay right where they are.

Thinking about Laos makes me extremely happy as a traveler. I am extremely jealous of my parent’s generation to have been able to travel to such untouched cultures, and knowing that there are still places like this to be explored really makes me smile.

It is hard for me to say look beyond what is set up for you, especially when, in my case, the place that has been set up has a strong hold in your heart. All I can say is, there is the possibility of falling in love again.





Happy Holidays!

Seb

Sunday, December 23, 2007
Expedition Honeymoon

Imagine that you just got married. The stress of a one year planning process has subsided, wedding drama resolved, the two families are meshing well, the guests have gone home and all that is left is the honeymoon. The period of time to recover and de-stress during which most couples plan relaxing experiences over cocktails and sunsets. “That is not something either of us is interested in” is my friend’s response to what an ideal honeymoon is. “If we are going to take a trip, we are going to do something exciting, fun, and unique. We both knew the honeymoon was going to be something different.” Liz says of her honeymoon in the Galapagos with her new husband Michael. I was reassured that the sunsets and cocktails were guaranteed aboard.

So, to all future honeymooners, skip the Thai massages, Japanese baths and jump right into the thick of things with a 5:30AM outing into the ancient world on some extra treks. That is, only if there is not an earlier adventure scheduled. Or, perhaps sleep in a little and start at nine in the morning instead to follow what was originally set for the program. Don’t worry, you will be back for dinner at 7:30PM, until then there is an entire catalog of flora and fauna to be seen.

Image Copyrighted by Lindblad

Michael and Liz explored the Galapagos Islands through National Geographic aboard the Lindblad’s Polaris. The ten day expedition includes snorkeling near a colony of sea lions on Floreana, visiting Fernandina Is., the youngest island on the Galapagos and is heavily populated by marine iguanas. A visit to the Galapagos is not complete without mention of its most famous celebrity, Darwin of course. The Charles Darwin Research center is primarily based on Santa Cruz but focuses its preservation efforts throughout the islands.

Two days are dedicated to the islands of Bartolome, Santiago, and Espanola where everything that defines the Galapagos in the minds of many; snorkeling with penguins, blue-footed boobies, lava, mangroves and tortoises. With all this activity, you might be worried that quality might be sacrificed for quantity, according to Liz this was not the case.

Having signed up through National Geographic, I expected I was going to live a documentary that they air on the Galapagos. I was not disappointed in the leastEverything was spectacular, it's like nothing you have ever experienced. When the wildlife has no fear what so ever of humans, and walk up to you to investigate you, it's incredibleThe crew was also amazing. Especially the naturalists. When in the Galapagos, you are required to have a naturalist with your group all the time. They are some of the most well educated people I have ever encountered. These guys know everything about the Galapagos, and many grew up on Santa Cruz island. There was not a question that they did not have the answer to. They also have such passion about the islands and the wildlife.”

The element of danger has always been synonymous with adventure and a good personal story makes a trip so much more special. So when I asked Liz if she had a good story to come home with she replied with a resounding “HAHA our zodiac sunk!” Not always what you would want to hear on an island expedition. “We were returning from one of the Islands and our Naturalist thought that it would be a nice detour to go over to a reef to watch the iguanas feed. It was a great idea, no doubt. For about 2 minutes we cruised around this rocky reef where there was two or three iguanas feeding. Then out of blue there was this explosion of bubbles. At first I thought it was some sort of blow hole from the surf in the rocks, but I quickly realized that was not the case! We had rubbed some barnacles and there was a slice in our boat, we were quickly losing air. Generally these zodiacs have multiple chambers of air, so sinking is not an issue, but we found out that the other chambers were not functioning! As the zodiac lost air another one came to our rescue, and we transfered over to it mid water. I don't think anyone was concerned with drowning, as we were not far from shore or shallow waters, but concerned more for the camera equipment on board...The Captain, "Super G", of the zodiac then tried to go back to ship, only to make it about 1/4 of the way before he could no longer move forward without going under water. He got a tow from another zodiac back to the ship…By the end of the trip they had patched up the zodiac and it was back in the water. There were a few paranoid guests who did not want to ride in zodiac #3, but it was completely safe (I am sure it's not the first one to get patched!!).”

At the end of the day, our adventurous newlyweds claimed their glory, saw things that exist only in such a remote part of the world and had their cocktail over a sunset as well. So, as Liz put it, “how do you top that?” A perfect adventure for the adventurous couple.


For more information click here.


All Photos Taken by Liz Sobol

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Saturday, December 22, 2007
Nigeria: Embrace It
After my serene moment at the damn the most intense part of my journey began. Each time I look back at the entire five hour tour I wish that we had driven to the local village first. Perhaps then I could have eased my mind from the severe poverty that I was to witness.

I have lived in third world countries, seen some of the worst poverty in my own country but nothing prepared me for this. The rural villages I had seen as a child in jungles and mountain villages seemed like Shambala compared to the village we rode through in an armored vehicle.

Despite its bourgeoisie standard, the Mercedes G Wagon was perfect for this part of the trip. He roads were not paved, only slim vehicles with significant ground clearance could have navigated through the bumpy roads which wound around clay shacks like a misshapen snake amongst native pottery.

Brown, not a chocolate brown but a hazelnut brown, is the color of the village. We were passing through the town to reach a crafts factory where locals make traditional clay pottery and crafts. It was obvious the clay was used for homes as well.

The juxtaposition of the Mercedes, a symbol of affluence, driven by an African man with a non-black passenger amongst such poverty made me feel uncomfortable. Not in the way that one would feel threatened but in a sense that my presence symbolized such a state of things, a state of inequality, of the push for modernization and the consequences of industrialization.

Our windows were tinted completely dark showing only the reflection of their poverty. I saw what I felt reflected in the eyes of the curious villagers; eyes which have seen numerous symbols of affluence pass by. I saw a sense of wanting followed by the setting of the reality of daily survival as we drove off, leaving the inhabitants gazing at the back of our black symbol of modernity. Much like seeing a dream manifest before your eyes, and disappear just as quick.

A sense of desperation come over me as we drove through the village, similar to an innate feeling to run away from this dire situation. There were naked children running in and out of huts, half naked women chasing after them, and trash everywhere. We passed through what seemed like the village center, where the locals were burning wood and gathering around. An elderly woman stood prominently amongst them, grey hair in disarray, topless and in torn dirty rags looking at the half a million dollar vehicle drive through her home. A hollow feeling lodged itself in my throat for the remainder of the afternoon.

The pure state of poverty was overwhelming. The opportunity to take many great shots with my camera presented itself on numerous occasions, but instead I held back. I felt that the only reason for the shots was to capture the poverty, not the beauty of the people. Several times I pressed the viewfinder to my eyes only to find that I could not bring myself to release the shutter. Who was I to do so? I am not an anthropologist, I am not a journalist; I am a visitor. I had no right to try and make any statements with my pictures because my audience would be a personal collection of people and the pictures I took would have been taken for the sake of entertainment not to change the situation. I am not that kind of traveler.

The beautiful smiles of the children who greeted us as we arrived at the crafts factory, run primarily by the local women, most likely their mothers, eased my soul like a glass of cold water on a humid day. The women gathered clay from the banks of a nearby river and shape their clay pots in the factory. When I say "factory" I mean to say a couple of small huts and about ten women. They designed the pots according to traditional customs and heated the pots under burning dried palm leaves and dried shrubs. The women were very confident in their work and seemed to enjoy creating their masterpieces. It is important to note that the prices were set by the women and not the factory owners. The factory served more as a marketing system as opposed to a company. All the work done here was delivered to arts villages which cater to tourists afraid to venture outside of the capitol. Translation: No tourists here.

After making some small purchases and taking pictures of the artists, Asimyu decided that I needed to unwind. He took me out for a drink at a local palm wine bar...err...road-side set-up...however you would label a shady area under a tree on the side of the road with wooden benches and two ladies serving palm wine out of two large blue plastic drums. Oh, not to mention that there were a lot of confused drunken faces.

Apparently this location had the best palm wine in Abuja. What exactly is palm wine? It is palm juice which ferments naturally in open air. It is warm and has a unique sweet but pungent flavor. It is served directly out of the large blue barrels and into a cup lying in a bucket of murky water. Wasps flew about eating up the sugar, you could see pieces of palm floating about with the wine. Everything in my body said ‘Don’t do it’ except that one small voice which defines every real adventurer. Never say no, it is rude, especially if someone buys you a drink. Cheers!

Asimyu was proud, so much so that he bought me a liter of the stuff which I was happy to present to my father when I returned to his home later that evening. I walked through the door, conquest in hand. I make my way to the kitchen and my brother follows suit. My father doesn’t realize what I have in my hand until I say ‘palm wine’ and simultaneously open the bottle. A look of shock and horror turned into a bellowing laugh and eventually a skewed look settled on his face as the contents of the bottle erupted in both my brother’s and my own face. A burst of noxious fume fills the kitchen instantaneously, forcing me and my family to temporarily evacuate. Apparently, when palm wine is bottles and capped, pressure builds up as the enzymes continue the fermentation process.

My experience in Nigeria was fantastic to say the least. I have such great hope for the country and hope that one day it is able to fully express its potential. The country is rich in culture and resources, beautiful tribes reign here. There is so much adventure to be had, I only wish I had more time. I have always believed that it takes a certain type of traveler to love Africa and they are the ones that the adventures are made for. There is little here to cater to convenience, make use of that, embrace it, it is Nigeria.

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Friday, December 21, 2007
Open Up, I’m Coming Through!

A lot of trends which have significant impact on tourism begin to show themselves the more I do research into the world of travel. Political decisions, environmental concerns and regulation and pop culture all have a powerful effect on how we travel. I just wanted to give you all a heads up on something that, from my perspective as a travel addict, I think is absolutely great and is a recurring theme in the world; the opening up of borders.

For years governments have embraced the idea of becoming borderless but now they are implementing these ideas. This century has thus far continued to show that the tearing down of borders, be it economically, politically or socially has been a central theme. In a previous post entitled Joined at the Visa I talked about the Thai and Cambodian governments testing the use of one visa for both countries, the Chinese and US governments are opening up tourism marketing systems between them and now a majority of former Eastern bloc countries have joined a Schengen zone which would allow unrestricted travel, i.e. no checkpoints, from Estonia to Portugal. We are talking about the potential for about 400 million people being able to physically move, unrestricted from one side of Europe to another.


The commercial and political outcomes are greatly beneficial and is rooted in the fact that people in Europe can more easily move about. Travelers can go between Estonia and Portugal without the use of a passport. Here is a scenario; you loose your passport at the border of the Czech Republic and Slovakia right as the border guards ask you to present it. Yesterday this would mean you had to go back into the Czech Republic and head straight over to your nearest consulate putting your trip on hold. Not anymore! Today your trip continues and you can make it to the next capitol, ask for a new passport and enjoy the city at hand. What if it takes one or two weeks for a passport? Then keep traveling and come back when it has arrived!


There are always exciting developments in the world stage that affect travel and the way things are going, we are on the way to being able to see so much more, so much easier and according to our own pace.











Seb
Colliding Continents


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Nigeria: Adventures in a G Wagon
Remembering etiquette before taking a picture of something or someone is a tricky thing. In Nigeria it is extremely important to always ask permission prior to taking a picture of anyone or anything. Generally you will receive a warm hearted ‘You are welcome.'

I made the mistake of taking a picture of a group of men in the back of a pick up truck and in return I received several violent gestures and raised voices. This was a bad mistake and I feel extremely ashamed for having insulted the truckload of workers. Even more so since Asimyu, the ambassador’s driver, had to drive fast in order to get away from the truck because the gestures were getting more and more threatening. Lesson learned; don’t piss off a truckload of Nigerians.

I was fortunate enough to have Asimyu give me a personal tour of the capital city. We started off with the basics: Government institutions. Keep in mind that photographers of all levels need to have permission from the government to take pictures within a federal zone or take pictures of federal buildings (i.e. government buildings, the airport etc). If caught doing so your camera would be confiscated and destroyed.

Despite my ambitious attempts, I was unable to capture any good shots of the National Assembly or any of the other federal institutions. I was fortunate enough to be driven through the restricted compounds and presidential residence since we had diplomatic access, I was not going to be greedy.

A two mile road with checkpoints every half mile led up to the National Assembly. I remember feeling as if though I was doing something I was not allowed to do since technically I was not allowed to even be there. I unconsciously took off my baseball cap and held my breath at every check point. The military police would look at me intensely, wondering why I was not wearing a suit or uniform. I felt myself anticipate a barrage of words followed by hand motions ushering us to go the other way. Fortunately that was not the case and we were allowed to access pretty much everything except for the presidential palace which was placed strategically to have Aso Rock behind it. The backdrop created a magnificent setting obviously intended to create a sense of awe and patriotism.

Aso rock, one of the largest rocks in the world, overlooks the capital and presidential palace. It is a key landmark because it can be seen from any point in the city. In order to climb Aso rock, you need the blessings of the priests who guard it. Unfortunately, I was in the country during the Presidential elections, which meant that no one was to go up to Aso.

In its entirety, the natural setting of Abuja is beautiful in a raw, almost untouched kind of way. Green hills and giant rocks encircle the entire city making it seem as if though you were in a valley.

We explored the lakes around Abuja and stumbled upon some of the construction plans posted on billboards around one of the lakes. The plans were quite ambitious for a city with major
infrastructure and logistical issues. They depicted lake side houses complete with a shopping center. The blueprints were obviously of an idealized western design. Unfortunately the plans were still in proposal stage and had been for the better part of two years. At the moment only the expatriates working for ABB live on the prime lakeside properties. ABB happens to be a very large multinational Swiss engineering firm.

There seems to be a lot of ambitious hope and expectations for this city. At one point we drove by a housing complex with rows upon rows of town houses. They were obviously created for middle class Nigerians. Unfortunately it seems that they anticipated a middle class to grow quickly and accommodate one before it had even been formed. These rows upon rows of houses were empty, the Nigerians could not afford them, therefore the workers that worked on these houses ended up squatting in them with no running water or electricity.

Osuman dam, the damn that we visited, also met with high expectations from the citizens of Abuja. When fully functional, it is expected to solve all of Abuja's water issues which is by no means a small problem. The water in the reservoir seemed to stretch as far as the eye could see. Hilltops became islands and the reservoir a popular fishing spot amongst the local villagers.


There was a calm sense about the area, away from the bustle of a third world capitol. Local villagers were fishing in the reservoir, we took turns sizing each other up. Directly on the other side of the dam wall, less than fifteen feet away was raw, red earth. Walking down the road which ran adjacent to the untouched area, were two village women walking to the market place with firewood on their heads. Asimyu explained that they were local villagers who walk miles to find fire wood to sell and to also keep warm at night. It was obvious to me that the rapid push for modernization was leaving a trail of poverty in this country. This realization became more acute before the day was out.

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Wednesday, December 19, 2007
DC Area's Underwater Armada
Washington, DC is not known for turquoise waters and white sand beaches that boast amazing underwater life. Pirate wars did not take place on the Potomac and the only ‘booty’ you would be able to find is in the Smithsonian. The area is historical though and so are the contents of its waters.

During WWI, on April 2, 1917 President Woodrow Wilson announced a call to arms and the entire nation began to mobilize. Part of this order required the building of a fleet of fast coal ships which would constitute the US’s main supply line for the troops in Europe. The US government signed a contract for 731 wooden steamships to be manufactured, the majority of which would never be used.

These ships are known as the Ghost Fleet of Mallows Bay. Some were sunk in Mallows Bay but most were left to rot, these can be seen above, the picture you see is from Google Maps. They now sit at the bottom of the shallow bay, some sticking out of the water like a zombie’s hand out of a burial spot. Nature has taken matters into her own hands covering the ships with algae.

The Ghost Fleet can be found around the bend at Sandy Point entering Mallows Bay, going south on the Potomac River. The ships are surrounded by tall forested bluffs, covered by vegetation. When that eerie feeling which starts from the back of your neck makes its way all over your body, you have found the fleet.

South of Mallows Bay, is an area called Piney Point, Maryland where the U-1105, a Type VII-C German WWII era submarine, lies in its Potomac resting place. The sub was saw active combat in 1945 disabling the HMS Redmill, an English Frigate and killing 32 men.

When the armistice was signed on November 11th the Black Panther, so called for its black rubber coating, was surrendered to the English and given to the US to undergo testing. It was during testing that the Black Panther was damaged and sunk in the Potomac River. Unfortunately the US Navy did not mark down the coordinates down accordingly and the U Boat was lost in the waters for almost 40 years. In 1985, a team of sports divers found the U-1105 and by 1994 the site became Maryland’s first historic shipwreck preserve.

There may not be any sharks or colorful coral, but the experience sure makes for a good story over some Chesapeake crabs and beer!

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Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Volcanic Mood Ring
I went to Flores, Indonesia once when I was a student in Jakarta. The natural wonders of Indonesia are awe-inspiring at the very least and imparts a lasting impression. Nowhere else in the world are there such great wonders.

On my particular trip to Flores, the one site which I remember best was a volcano called Mt. Kelimutu. Kelimutu is not known for its size or a destructive past, but for the three crater lakes, each one a different color.

The thirty-minute hike to Kelimutu’s summit seemed to take longer than the half hour trek the itinerary promised. I was excited to see the volcano and my mind was racing with images of red hot lava and black volcanic rocks. I had never been to see a volcano from above before and I had no idea what that horrible smell was which had been slowly annoying my olfactory senses at the bottom of the hill. By the time we were halfway to Kelimutu's summit the smell was in full assault mode.

The guide asked our group if we noticed a smell getting stronger. “Are you kidding? I can feel my face melting” I nearly said out loud. He explained that it was the smell of sulfur and it will get stronger the closer we are to the volcano. By which point, he assured us, the smell would not be as intense because our senses would have gotten used to it. Sure enough, when we reached our destination the smell subsided in intensity.

The lakes reminded me of an artist’s color palette with three blotches of paint. According to local legend, the colors are a result of the different moods of the spirits dwelling in the lakes. A giant mood ring, now there is a concept. To the west is the blue Lake of Old People, Tiwi Ata Mbupu. It was a dark blue and when the clouds passed overhead it seemed to almost turn black. The Enchanted Lake, Tiwu Ata Polo, was to the east and displayed a red color. Tiwo Nua Muri Kooh Tai, the Lake of Young Men and Maidens, lies in between Ata Mbupu and Tiwu Ata Polo and is the most striking green. These colors are the result of a combination of volcanic minerals and oxygen, the varying levels of which have been known to change colors over time. The best time to see the lakes is during sunrise during which the different shades of color can be witnessed. For best results, hope the lake spirits are in a good mood.

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Monday, December 17, 2007
Saipan Chillin’
The capitol of the US Commonwealth of the Northern Mariana Islands (CNMI), Saipan presents itself with history and beauty, how could you possibly resist. Complete with the mystique of Pacific islands, Saipan is an island where you can easily forget life on the mainland and slip away into island mode.

Saipan was captured from Japanese occupation by US forces in 1955 after a three week battle which inspired the movie Windtalkers. It was from the CNMI, specifically the island of Tinian that the US Air Force loaded up two bombers with the “Little Boy” the “Fat Man” which were eventually dropped on Hiroshima and Nagasaki.

I like history, but imagine seeing history underwater. Managaha Island is in the Tanapang Lagoon north of Micro Beach. It is the most popular snorkeling spot in Saipan and an excellent place to see sunken treasures such as WWII planes amongst the coral. There are also three Japanese artillery pieces still on the beach as well. This island was captured after the main island was taken over from Japan.

Some great diving spots in the Pacific are in the CNMI and Saipan’s Forbidden Island offers some great encounters. Black-tip reef sharks, spinner dolphins, and large Napoleon wrasses are some of the coral inhabitants at Forbidden Island. It is an island pretty close to Saipan and is only accessible through the Kagman village.

For a great swim check out the Grotto, a sunken pool connected to the ocean by underwater passages. I don’t think it could get anymore intriguing than that. The solid deep blue waters are a result of the sun’s rays hitting the water.

The birds eye view on Mt. Tapochao in Saipan is just as spectacular as the underwater views the island has to offer. From here you are able to view the spectacular island in its entirety in a 360 degree unobstructed view. It is the best place on the island to experience a sunset and a perfect ending to a day full of underwater adventures.


For an insider’s perspective of life on Saipan, check out: The Saipan Blog

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Biosphere Town
According to the Saigon Times, plans are underway to create a 600-hectare ecotourism town in the Can Gio Biosphere reserve 50km southwest on Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. 200-hectares of which are going to be used to create an artificial, white sand bay.

The Can Gio Tourist City Corporation (CTC) has already started work on the artificial bay taking white sand from other beaches and covering the muddy banks of the reserve. This is phase one of the project, the addition of the white sand will be the final touch once the ground leveling and sea expansion is completed.

Phase two of the project includes the building of luxury housing and tourism services facilities. The total amount of time and cost; 5 years, $526 million. Once completed, the town is will be able to accommodate 33,000 people, 22,000 of which are expected to be tourists.

Can Gio Biosphere Reserve is a wetland bio-system boasting impressive mangroves and many rare species of flora and fauna. It was named a biosphere reserve by UNESCO. This project is intended to create a model for ecotourism and sustainable travel. Along with creating accommodations, access to the biosphere reserve will be facilitated by creating a bride instead of relying on the traditional ferry system, making the reserve more accessible.

With a significant amount of leveling and transporting of white sand (which is foreign to the area), the idea of creating a town in a biosphere reserve seems contradictory to what ‘sustainable tourism’ means. Can Gio is considered Ho Chi Minh’s ‘green lungs’ but with 33,000 people moving in, hopefully these green lungs stay green.


Read more here.

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Friday, December 14, 2007
Joined at the Visa
Foreign Ministers of Thailand and Cambodia, Nitya Piblusonggram and Hor Namhong, will sign an agreement which would allow visitors to use one visa to travel in both counties.

This is the first project which falls under the Ayeyawady-Chao Phya-Mekong Economic Cooperation Strategy (ACMES). This strategy is focused on increasing tourism in Cambodia, Thailand, Laos and Vietnam and its initiative is tagged as “Four Countries, One Visa.” The result of the Thai and Cambodia pilot will determine its implementation amongst all four nations.

Although agreed upon, the “One Visa” initiative will not be implemented until both Interior Ministries have reviewed and are ready to implement regulations. There is no set date for the implementation as of yet.

The overall initiative is a great idea for increasing tourism and will make travel in the region significantly easier for tourists. Travel packages can be created to focus on the region and will prove rather beneficial to the economies of both Thailand and Cambodia.

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Ships of the Desert
If you search Mo’ynaq on the Uzbektourism National Company website you won’t find anything in English. It is a town in northern Karakalpakstan on the western side of Uzbekistan. This former fishing town is known for its doomed relationship with the Aral Sea. A sea which is dying, its shores recede every year and, as a consequence the population of Mo’ynaq declines along with the Aral’s existence.

Mo’ynaq was once a large fishing community and was also Uzbekistan’s only port city. Over fishing and diversion of water to satisfy cotton production led to the Aral’s receding shorelines and the collapse of the economic system of the city. The town of Mo’ynaq is now but a shell of its former fishing glory.

This area is also home of the ships of the desert. Ships which are rotting away on sands where there once was water. The stark contrast of ships on sand is very dramatic, this place is an adventure, one that is slipping away. Getting to this town is an adventure itself, a combination of air and land travel though the desert.

Coming to Mo’ynaq is not for your typical traveler who wants the traveler experience that is catered by larger tourism spots. This is place is for someone who wants to see and feel the desert lifestyle in Central Asia and witness the consequences of rapid misuse of natural resources.

Photographers would appreciate such a place and recognize it as a town full of hope and potential now slowly eroding away like the ships on the sand. Those feeling resonate in the rotting trucks, buses and ships left to disappear on their own.

There is a lot of poetry and imagery in Mo’ynaq. Once again, this is not for the tourist type, this is for those who want to feel a place with a lot of character, where its history is still painfully obvious and to observe the consequences of the clash between society and environment.

John Rehn traveled to Mo'ynaq in 2005 and describes his adventure on his blog. Read about John Rehn’s adventure to Mo’ynaq here, he gives a full description of life there and his experience traveling towards the dying Aral.

For more information about traveling to Uzbekistan go to the Uzbektourism National Company site.

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Thursday, December 13, 2007
Chefspiration in Malaysia
I have noticed that the fastest way of assimilating in a new culture is through food. Granted you could run into some interesting situations and personal morals may have to be put aside to avoid insult.

I decided to reach out to my good friend Alexandra, who lives in Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia and asked her for some suggestions as to where to dine out and what you absolutely must have while in KL. She also happens to be a chef herself so her advice is one worth listening to.

The first thing I noticed in our email conversation regarding cuisine in KL is that, it is a mix of Chinese, Indian and Malay. For someone like me, this is a whole trip’s worth of discovery.

According to Alex, food in KL can be found anywhere and everywhere; on streets, in back alleys, and in car parks. She suggests trying a few different stalls from the Chinese to Indian to the Malay.


For a nice restaurant that has great food, a “loungy” environment, and a great view of the Twin Towers check out Marketplace Restaurant on Lorong Yap Kwan Seng. Lunch is served from 12pm – 3pm and dinner from 6pm-11pm. Marketplace is closed on Mondays and Wednesdays, but open the rest of the week. They also have a happy hour from 5pm-10pm on the days they are open.

(http://www.marketplacekl.com/)

Tamarind Springs is the place to experience "luxury jungle dining" at its best. It has a Bali/Phuket resort feel to it and is located at the jungle’s edge. Its Indochinese menu is prepared by award-winning Chef Somkhuan Wandee. (http://www.tamarindrestaurants.com/tamarindsprings/tamarindsprings.php)


Local street treats:

Alex:

I would suggest a walk along Jalan Alor where there are many stalls serving great Chinese food.

For the banana leaf(Indian dishes served on a banana leaf) experience one should look out for a Sri Paandi's chain as there are a few scattered around town.

Dishes one MUST try if they visit Malaysia: Roti Canai, Hokkien Mee, Char Kway Teow, Thosai, Laksa.

So if you are in KL make sure you hit up a few stalls and if you are feeling like a little sit-down dinner time hit up either marketplace or Tamarind.

For a better scoop on cuisine check out Alex’s blog, Chefspiration.blogspot.com.

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Cash Flows through China and Into the US
In my previous posting Blow Your Money in Macau, I mentioned that the Chinese middle class is booming with the exceptional growth of China’s economy. On Tuesday a deal was signed by the U.S. Commerce Secretary Carlos Gutierrez to allow Chinese travel agencies to market packaged tours in locations throughout the United States and likewise, Beijing will allow U.S. destinations to advertise in China.

This underlines the fact that the weakened U.S. dollar is allowing for an opportunity to increase the revenues of the U.S. tourism industry. This is great news for American businesses simply because of the nature of Chinese travelers who enjoy traveling in large groups. Hotels and operators will find it easier to market their travel packages and to extend discounted rates which leads to more business.

This deal is significant beyond the realm of travel and could prove to have side effects which will be felt in the years to come.


Read more about this deal from Courant.com's article by Samantha Gross, From China, With Cash

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Wednesday, December 12, 2007
Blow Your Money in Macau
A rising middle class, weak dollar and more disposable income is allowing for more Chinese travelers to live it up in Macau. Northeast Asia makes up 94% of total visitors and a little more than half of that percentage is made up by mainland Chinese traveling between January to October of 2007 according to the Macau Government Tourist Office. This figure is up 20.74% from the same months in 2006. Hotel occupancy has increased from 59% in January 2007 to almost 90% in October 2007 with the largest percentage increase seen amongst four star hotels.

With fresh and familiar names from the strip having made appearances already, such as the Wynn hotel and casino, this island is starting to make Las Vegas look like its old uncle. Macau offers everything from golf, cable cars, cycling, trekking, a formidable nightlife scene, horse racing, greyhound racing and casino gambling.

Growth indicators in Macau show how well this little island is doing and how much better off its mainland visitors are financially. In the past two years the number of rooms available has increased by 27,517, overall occupancy rates are up 4.33%, 341 more tour guides are available and 43 more restaurants established.

With this kind of growth, Macau is undoubtedly establishing itself as Asia’s playground.

For more information visit the Macau Government Tourist Office.

*Photo courtesy of MGTO

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A Gooey Dive
I like the idea of being out of your element, snorkeling and diving in a lake full of jellyfish would definitely take the cake. The Palau islands to the east of the Philippines is home to Jellyfish Lake. A lake which is home to thousands of jellyfish which have been stranded for millions of years because whatever opening that led them in had closed behind them years ago.

It is a dive that people can only dream of and one that is not dangerous at all. Due to the fact that the jellyfish have no predators in the lake, they have evolved to no longer rely on their stings. The environment is perfect for them to survive in by farming their own food.

The following operators will be able to get you a tour of Jellyfish Lake. Also check out Visit Palau for more information.


Antelope
Location: In Malakal, Koror. Services: Airport Transfer & Transfer to Dive Shop Free; Marine Diving Club Hotel on Dive Shop Premises. Tours: Diving, Sea Kayak. Rental Services: Boat Charters, Dive Equipment. Land Transportation: Vans. Credit Cards: V


Antelope
P.O. Box 1722
Koror, Palau 96940
Telephone: (680) 488-1059
Fax: (680) 488-2077
Email: antelope@palaunet.com


EZ Tours
Snorkeling and Jellyfish Lake Tours


EZ Tours
P.O. Box 6021
Koror 96940

Telephone: (680) 488-6163 / 775-6051
Fax: 488-2732
Email: reklai@reklai.com
Contact: Phil Reklai


Fish n' Fins
Often described in dive magazines, as one of the best dive operation in the world, Fish 'n Fins is the pioneer dive shop in Palau.


Fish n' Fins
P.O. Box 142
Koror, Palau
96940
Telephone: (680) 488-2637
Fax: (680) 488-5418
Email: info@fishnfins.com
Website: http://www.fishnfins.com
Contact: Tova, Femmie, Jacky, Lily


Imperial Palau Corporation
Impac Tours offers land , sea and nature tours in Palau.


Imperial Palau Corporation
P.O. Box 10107
Medalaii, Koror State 96940
Telephone: (680) 488-0666/ 0606 / 3779
Fax: (680) 488-5777
Email: impac@palau-impac.com
Website: http://www.palau-impac.com
Contact: Isaya Sugawara


Neco Marine
Neco Marine: Setting the standard in Palau since 1984.


Neco Marine
P.O. Box 129
Koror, Palau
96940
Telephone: (680) 488-1755/2009
Fax: (680) 488-5245
Email: info@necomarine.com
Website: http://necomarine.com


Sam's Tours
Sam's Tours award winning PADI Five Star National Geographic Dive Center, is Palau's premier dive center for quality personalized service. Winner of 8 Scuba Diving Magazine, Reader's Choice Awards!


Sam's Tours
P.O. Box 7076,
Koror, Palau
96940
Telephone: (Int'l Code) + (680) - 488-1062
Fax: (Int'l Code) + (680) - 488-5003
Email: info@samstours.com
Website: http://www.samstours.com
Contact: Sam Scott, Founder & President


*Photo courtesy of Visit-Palau.com

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Island Runaways
The Caribbean is well known for its large resorts accompanied by hordes of tourists to soak up the sun. Personally, I enjoy looking for the hidden aspects of island life without all the luxuries and “easy access” infrastructure catered to tourists. At the same time, finding that deserted island could be tedious and very uncomfortable. There must be a happy medium somewhere! In the Caribbean there are two such places, Montserrat and a hidden part of St. Croix.

Montserrat, once an island teeming with tourists bringing in over 30,000 tourists annually in the 1980s, attracted a mere 8,000 in 2006. This Caribbean getaway was abandoned by many tourists and inhabitants alike when in 1995 one of the oldest residents of the island had a fit. The Soufrière Hills volcano erupted, burying the then capitol Plymouth, which is still hidden under a thick coating of ash. St. Patrick’s Church spire, protruding from the layer of ash, is a dramatic reminder of the old capitol’s location.

The Montserrat Tourism Board is currently doing everything it can to bring tourism back to its 1980s level, an accomplishment that is not far fetched considering the islands natural features. Montserrat boasts volcano adventures, nature hikes, beautiful beaches and great snorkeling and diving. There is also a Montserrat Music festival which took lace on December 8th, according to Bones of the Caribbean Beat Blog.The island offers accommodations to suit all types of travelers, from hostels to villas and private apartments.

St. Croix in comparison is very developed but that doesn’t mean you can’t get away from the overpriced accommodations and masses of people. On the western side of the island is Mount Victory Camp, a site which is part of an eco farm and embodies Caribbean camping at its best. Visitors stay in teak bungalows or tent sites and get to experience island flora and fauna right immediately before them.

The wildlife is there for you to interact with from doves to lizards and tortoises. One of the best aspects of this camp is that you do not have to sacrifice good beach time in order to get away from the crowds; the camp is within close proximity to white-sand beaches. The camp offers guided hiking excursions with Caribbean naturalists and historians including SCUBA diving, snorkeling, kayaking and rainforest rides so you will definitely not get bored!

Hidden secrets like these are bound to get even more popular, so if you are ready to go soak up some Caribbean sun and leave the tourists behind, pack your sandals and sunscreen because the islands are calling.

Check out the Caribbean Beat Blog - The Web Log of Caribbean Beat Magazine

For more information:

Montserrat Tourism Board

Mount Victory Camp


*Photos courtesy of Montserrat Toursim Board and Mount Victory Camp

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Monday, December 10, 2007
Branson Learns Something New
A short follow-up from Sapceheads.

According to newvoyagenews.com, Richard Branson, Founder of the Virgin Group has passed his space flight training course on Sunday at the National Aerospace Training and Research Center (NASTAR).

According to Branson, “It was an amazing experience. Due to the flight simulation combined with the G forces created by the STS-400 centrifuge, I really felt like I was launching into space. I am glad many of the Founder astronauts got to do this, because it really does get us all prepared and excited about the real thing, and alleviates a lot of the apprehension people naturally have about whether they can handle a space launch or not. Now I know that I and the Founders can concentrate on the primary features of a Virgin Galactic space flight, which are the magnificent view of Earth and the weightless experience.”

Continue Reading here.

Thoughts on Ecotourism