Colliding Continents
For The Adventurer Within
Wednesday, January 30, 2008
Egypt's New Prize
First Peru, then Iran and now Egypt, all three cultures ancient heritages that are resurfacing. In Egypt’s Faiyum Oasis, American archaeologists have found the ruins of a farming city that could potentially date back to 7,000 years ago, according to the Egyptian Supreme Council of Antiquities. Local director of antiquities, Ahmed Abdel Alim, pointed out that the site is located about four miles from the water’s edge. This may suggest that the city was actually situated by the banks of the oasis at the time of its inhabitance.

As explained by Zahi Hawwas, chief of the antiquities council, the use of an electromagnetic survey had revealed a network of walls. The structures are reminiscent of those built during the Greco-Roman era which are, according to Hawwas, "still buried beneath the sand and the details of this discovery will be revealed in due course."


In addition to those city structures lie "…houses in terracotta or dressed limestone as well as a large quantity of pottery and the foundations of ovens and grain stores," According to Hawwas.
Tuesday, January 29, 2008
Midnight Train Amsterdam I
It was one of those moments where it seemed like a rash decision was the absolute smartest course of action. “Ok, I’m in, I’m coming with you!” It made perfect sense and I had always told myself that I needed to go with the flow. “So who wants another beer?”

The train ride to Malmö was a lot roomier than the trip back to Zurich. Six bunks on the way back instead of just four. Sweden was fun and I thought that heading back to Switzerland to recoup and gather more supplies before heading out again would be a good idea. I contemplated my next route, I had six weeks left in Europe which was a lot of time to work with. I still had a decent budget and could easily survive on hard bread and cheese for at least a month and still spare some change for a pint or three. Given the fact that I had thirteen hours of train time ahead of me I decided to continue strategizing at the restaurant/lounge car where there was bound to be a full service bar.

“Ja! Hungry, like ze Volf!” If you couldn’t already tell, Karl is from Germany. He boarded the train at Kiel and was headed to Köln via Duisberg. He was talking about Amsterdam, more specifically Karl’s experience at a “café,” or after having visited a “café” for that matter. Karl thought it would be funny to reference the Duran Duran song to highlight the drug induced hunger he was reminiscing to us about. ‘Us’ being Matt and Marc, two New Zealanders, Karl and myself.

I had spotted the group in the corner of the bar on the way into the restaurant car. Their table had the only spot left in the house. I took my Erdinger Heffenwiesen over and landed in the middle of a good time. After discerning where everyone was from the next subject was, “What are you doing on this train?”

Karl was headed home from a business trip. I explained that I was heading back to Zurich where I was staying with a family member, to recoup and promptly resume my adventure. My options were, well, all of Europe really. “We’re actually headed to Amsterdam for a night before heading off to San Sebastian to meet up with friends” Matt explained.

The two Kiwis had never been to Holland before so I mentioned that I had visited Amsterdam in 1999 on a trip with some college friends during my university years in London and that they would have a great time. Staying in hostels, cafes, getting robbed, the whole bit. The Kiwis got a little scared at this point but I, not wanting to discourage them, continued to encourage their idea and insisted that traveling Europe is not complete without a visit to the most liberal city in the world. They were somewhat convinced, something was up. We were seeing the bottom of our fourth beer. “Vier Heffenwiesen bitte!” It was Karl’s round.

“NO! I can’t, I have to get back to Zurich!” I explained.

“But you KNOW Amsterdam!” Marc says with a slur.

“I don’t KNOW Amsterdam, I’ve been there but…”

“Yeah, exactly! At least you could keep an eye out for us, put us on the right path. Plus it’d be fun.” Matt explains.

“Am I even on the right part of the train? Don’t I need an extra ticket or something? Is it even possible at this point”

“Sure you can!” They all reassure me. “Just ask the conductor.” I didn’t think it was possible and I set out to prove my point even though, given my intoxicated mindset, I had already made up my mind to join them.

The conductor looked at my drunken face with annoyance and reluctantly said “It is possible” in a thick Austrian accent. He handed me my ticket and says, “Look for someplace to stay in the front of the train. Where your compartment is now, is on the part of the train which will change direction in Essen. So you must go to the front and continue with the train to Duisberg. From Duisberg you will get off and change trains heading to Amsterdam

“Do I need a ticket?”

“Only your Eurail pass.”

“I don’t have to pay?”

“No” he said slower as he looked deeply into my eyes. Not the kind of ‘deeply’ like Humphrey Bogart and Ingrid Bergman ‘deeply’ but more like ‘if you don’t get out of my sight I’ll smack you sober’ kind of deeply.

I returned to my new found friends victoriously with all of my belongings which I managed to get off the top bunk without enraging any of my sleeping compartment-mates. That was quite the trial due to my disorientation caused by the train movements and my lack of equilibrium due to my inebriated state. I explained to Matt and Marc that I had to find a place to sleep for the duration of the trip, to which they responded that they were staying in a six sleeper compartment but that there were only two other people joining them. Perfect, I thought to myelf.

For a split second, between my fifth and sixth beer, I had a moment of doubt. Yet I was having such a great time that I wrote off my moment of doubt as nothing more than the beer thinking. I tried at that point to convince Karl to join us but he insisted that he had already had too much fun in Amsterdam and really wanted to go home to his family. Although, to make up for his absence, he invited us to Köln to celebrate some festival or other which was supposed to be better than October Fest. He gave us his card and contact info and at that point the two Kiwis and I said our goodbyes and headed for the front of the train. We weren’t too keen on meeting the two other guys (the compartments are either all male or all female only).

Their names were Mina and Katherine both born in Germany but were at that time, seniors at UC Berkley. I did a double take as soon as I walked into the compartment and made the Kiwis double check their compartment number to make sure that we were in the right one. Sure enough, they were twin sisters and we were in the right compartment, how serendipitous. The remainder of the night is forever lost to me.

By the time our after party died down we had gone through a quarter bottle of Scotch Whiskey and we had four hours left before our train arrived in Duisberg. We woke up fully clothed and groggy. We had to disembarked the train immediately, we were the last passengers onboard. It seemed bright out despite the fact that it was a dull, humid foggy morning. We bid farewell to the twins and made our way to the platform where our train would arrive to take us to Amsterdam. Looking up at the sign I read in big bold letters:

Platform 6B Intercity Train, Amsterdam TICKET HOLDERS ONLY

Monday, January 28, 2008
A Lesson Learned: Can't Leave Istanbul Without It
My father had once told me his story of traveling through Turkey in the 1970s with a group of friends and their Volkswagen bus. “Traveling in a VW bus in the 70’s, typical” I remember thinking to myself. He assured me that I could learn a lesson from this particular story and reminded me in life there is always a give and take.

After a long hot day driving around and sightseeing in Istanbul, Turkey my father and his colleagues decide to grab something to eat. My father’s friend, Franz, parked his car in front of an antique shop. The antiques merchant and his colleagues eye the VW bus and then look at the collection of hungry and sweaty Swiss faces. Franz says hello and the merchant immediately begins to offer him a miniature bronze statue of a man on a horse, claiming a great price on such a priceless antique. Having been swindled earlier on in the day (Franz purchased an item that was supposedly an antique but turned out to be a common replica) Franz, still bitter, immediately declines. The merchant insisted that it was “perfect” and it was in Franz’s best interest to purchase it, that “he would not be able to leave Istanbul without it.” Hungry, hot and irritated Franz simply walks off without a second glance to the merchant.

My father chose the restaurant. Having been well traveled he made the smart decision for them to sit on the second floor of a restaurant that was directly across the street from where the VW bus was parked. They sat on the porch and sat crossed legged, keeping a watchful eye on their vehicle. It did, after all, contain all of their belongings.

Happy and full with fine local cuisine, the Swiss companions made their way back to their bus. Happy that their bus had not been broken into, Franz proudly got into the driver’s seat, started the engine, and turned in his seat to wave to the vendor who was no longer there. At that same moment, while simultaneously releasing the clutch and applying pressure to the gas pedal, the VW van moved forward for a split second before a loud metal crunching sound met with exclamations of profanity in French and German, filled the vehicle. The entire VW ended up tilted to the left side, its undercarriage scraping along the asphalt until Franz slammed on the breaks. Everyone exited the vehicle and stared in an absolute amazement at two concrete blocks where the wheels used to be. The look of horror on Franz’s face replaced his previously proud visage. What in the world were they to do and where would they be able to buy two wheels for a VW?

Fortunately for them there happened to be an auto shop less than a block down the street owned by no other than the antiques merchant himself. He also happened to have two Volkswagen wheels, the perfect ones for his vehicle. Unfortunately, wheels were not sold in pairs or as single items, they had to be bought as a set. Disdainfully and with no proof that the wheels were theirs in the first place, the Swiss travelers combined funds to pay for four wheels. The merchant explained “These are perfect; you can’t leave Istanbul without them!”

An Order of Exotic Travel Please and Hold the Germs!
My fellow Travelers,

We are almost a full month into 2008 and naturally the results of studies, research and surveys are revealed in order for the travel industry, and economies reliant on tourism revenue, to better accommodate us.

Naturally there are some trends that have been expected to grow such as the demand for more eco friendly travel with an emphasis on sustainability or more intense, “adrenaline rush guaranteed” adventure tours. Those of us into pop culture and luxury travel would rightfully expect that luxury travel itself is moving in a more eco friendly way and that philanthropic travel, championed by celebrities, will come into full force in 2008. What does catch me off guard though is a growing concern among travelers about germs.

According to a TripAdvisor survey, a top concern for travelers is to have a germ free environment when they travel. Is that even possible? If so how does a tour operator control that variable? It is almost as if we are saying as a whole “Let’s get greener, let’s get our hands dirty but can we please do all of that while in a plastic bubble?”

It is quite a tall order to ask of the industry and in many ways it will push the standards of cleanliness higher, but going to a different country, especially in tropical regions, means putting yourself in a situation unfamiliar to you and your body. This is always something to consider before planning your trip. If you are concerned that your immune system might not be able to handle street food (for example) then consider eating at the hotel restaurants and avoid the street food. Also, instead of asking the tour operators to guarantee you a pathogen free experience, who in turn will raise package prices in order to accommodate us and our bubbles, take the initiative to research how to stay healthy while traveling or perhaps purchase traveler’s insurance.

Here is a little something to get you started from familydoctor.org

While you're traveling

  • Eat carefully if you're going to a country with an increased risk of traveler's diarrhea. Steaming-hot, well-cooked food is usually safest. Avoid eating foods from street vendors, unpasteurized dairy products, and raw or uncooked seafood. Peel fruits yourself. Drink water from commercially sealed bottles or drink carbonated beverages. Avoid ice. Use bottled water when you brush your teeth.
  • If you're going to a country with a risk of malaria, take preventive medicine for malaria as prescribed by your doctor. Remember to start taking your malaria medicine before you leave on your trip, take it during your travels and keep taking it for 4 weeks after you get home.
  • Avoid swimming and other water activities in freshwater lakes and streams. Schistosomiasis (also called bilharziasis) is a disease you might be exposed to in some African streams and lakes.
  • If you're going to a country with an increased risk of mosquito-borne disease, protect yourself against insects. Insect repellents that contain DEET work the best. Wear permethrin-coated clothing and use bed nets while you sleep.
  • Try to avoid taking overcrowded transportation. Try not to ride in vehicles without safety belts. Wear a helmet if you'll be riding a motorcycle. Try to avoid driving at night or in unfamiliar areas without local help and directions.
For the full breakdown of tips to stay healthy while traveling see International Travel: Tips for Staying Healthy

In the meantime take the risk and travel anyway. Germs, and avoiding them, are a part of the adventure!

Sincerely,

Seb

Sunday, January 27, 2008
Weak Dollar Serves Another Blow to US Travelers
The unhealthy state of the US economy is doing US travelers no favors whatsoever. In order to make up for the devaluation of the US dollar, airlines and cruislines have included fuel surcharges. Now it appears that US tour operators are going along for the ride as well including currency surcharges to their tour packages.

The largest tour operator in the US, Globus, have just added currency surcharges for their European tours. The surcharges range from $50 to $190 per tour package. According to Steve Born, the vice president of marketing for Globus, "It's a direct result of the currency value differences between the dollar and the euro," simply put it just costs more money now to operate there.

Other operators have been steadily increasing their package prices to account for rising costs, a strategy generally employed by most major tour operators worldwide. In the case for Globus, they did not expect such a downward swing in the value of the US dollar.

Removal of the surcharge depends on the strength of the dollar. The better the green back’s footing on the world currency stage, the more likely the surcharges will be removed. In regards to Steve Born’s outlook for the dollar and its effect on travelers he says "The new reality for American travelers…I tell people it's where it's supposed to be. Don't wait for it to recover. We're not as wealthy as we think we are."

Saturday, January 26, 2008
Canada Dangerous?
Canada has always conjured up an image of a peaceful people, great winter sports and French and English spoken with funny accents. Although, in the eyes of Smart Traveler, an Australian government funded advisory website, Canada is a destination where travelers should exercise caution and to be wary of winter storms, horrid driving conditions and terrorism attacks. Canada? Really?

"We advise you to exercise caution and monitor developments that might affect your safety in Canada because of the risk of terrorist attack," cautions the travel advisory which ranks Canada less safe than Chile, South Korea and Latvia as countries safer than Canada.

In response to this Australian high commissioner to Canada, William Fisher insists that Canada is still a top destination for Australians. Making such statements have significant impacts on people and their perception of another country. Smart Destinations is, after all, a government funded site but people should be aware of what factors go into their decisions to rank countries.

Every country has its own dangers, in fact there are a lot of risk factors when traveling. Although, when a website ranks three of the G8 countries as areas to 'Exercise Caution' whatever model you are using obviously needs some re-calibrating.

For more information read this article on CTV.ca: Warning doesn't keep Aussies from visiting Canada

Wednesday, January 23, 2008
A Nght Out at the Berlin Museums

Museum addicts and insomniacs gather around in Berlin for a Long Night of Museums on the 26th of January, 2008. From 6PM until 2AM begin a march through Berlin and all of its museum glory. The evening features an outdoor video installation, guided tours, dance performances, workshops, and special exhibitions in the museums with varying themes.

Below is the program, for more information visit: www.lange-nacht-der-museen.de

Opening of the Long Night of Museums
6pm, Piazzetta

Video installation
Time Fades: Continuity and Transitoriness
Projections through picture compositions by Philipp Geist.
Visitors are able to participate creatively in the installations through associations to the theme ‘Time’
6pm-2am, Piazzetta

Moreover
- cash point, info stand, catering
- glass studio from Radio Eins: Live-Reports from the Long Night


TICKETS

  • Kombiticket: valid in all participating institutions (from 6pm) as well as busses, suburban railways and undergrounds of the Berlin network (ABC)
    Saturday, 26th January 2008, 3pm until Sunday, 27th January 2008, 5am
  • Pre-selling: 12 Euro, reduced 8 Euro
    Day of the event: 15 Euro, reduced 10 Euro
    Children until the age of 12 have free entrance.
  • Pre-selling: amongst others in participating museums, theatre box offices, Berlin info stores
  • Via Internet: www.museumsportal-berlin.de


ON FOOT
Seven museums are reachable by foot within the radius of Kulturforum Potsdamer Platz. Behind the Piazzetta the Picture Gallery, Library of the Arts, Copper Engraving and the Museum of Decorative Arts are located. Passing the St. Mathew church, which functions as a concert hall during this Long Night, one reaches the New National Gallery and opposite the Latin-American Institute. Northerly, behind Kammermusiksaal and Philharmonic Orchestra, is hiding the Museum of Musical Instruments. Directly at Potsdamer Platz, the Museum of Film and Television is located which is only a short walk away. The museum is located next to the first bus stop of route 1 and 2 which also serve the Martin-Gropius-Bau.
The first bus stop of route 4 in direction West is the Shell-Haus GASAG, which is also easy reachable by foot.


ROUTES
Start and end at Matthäikirchplatz

  • R1 Potsdamer Platz · Wilhelmstraße · Unter den Linden · Lustgarten · Berliner Rathaus
  • R2 Potsdamer Platz · Mehringdamm · Lindenstraße · Oranienburger Straße · Kottbusser Tor · Leipziger Straße
  • R3 Tiergartentunnel · Invalidenstraße
  • R4 Lützowplatz · Bhf.Zoologischer Garten
  • R5 Potsdamer Platz · U/S Steglitz · Museen Dahlem


Tuesday, January 22, 2008
Kenya: Security Update
Western governments are beginning to ease their position in regards to travel to Kenya as the recent turmoil begins to boil down. Some of the news coming out of Kenya via non-African news media may reflect a scene which seems more desperate than what the situation actually is. In keeping things in perspective, below is a security update from the Kenya Tourist Board just posted on their website http://www.magicalkenya.com.


Monday 21st January 2008: Security Update: 6.00 p.m.

Today all was calm across Nairobi including the central business district and no problems were reported today in the slums. The airports operated as normal and all roads were open as usual.

Mombasa and the coastal areas: all calm and quiet with business as usual in Mombasa town and all roads open as normal.

No problems were reported in any of the wildlife parks and reserves, with all tourist routes open for traffic as normal.

The town of Narok, which is on the route from Nairobi to the Mara, and where there were two days of demonstrations last week, is reported now to be calm with all shops and businesses open today as normal.

Once again there were no reports of any problems affecting tourists staying in Nairobi hotels, beach resorts, on safari, or transferring between airports and hotels. This has been the case throughout the whole post-election period.

The areas of Western Kenya around Kisumu-Kericho-Eldoret are still off-limits for tourists and there have been reports of continued isolated inter-ethnic clashes in this region. This area has been avoided by tour operators since onset of the post-election crisis and this part of the country is not normally visited by tourists in any case.

Kofi Annan is expected to arrive tomorrow and expectations are high that his role as mediator will help both sides to achieve a reconciliation, reflecting the wish of the overwhelming majority of Kenyans whose greatest desire is to see peace and calm restored throughout the country.

The British Travel Advisory was amended on Saturday so that it is no longer a blanket “non-essential travel” warning against the whole of Kenya and applies only to specific locations, in line with our own recommendations, and on similar lines to the US and German government advisories. This should result in more visitors being able to travel to Kenya in the weeks ahead.

Kenya Tourist Board, Kenya Tourism Federation

JetBlue to the Rescue

JetBlue Airways Corp. announced new daily non-stop flights to from New York’s John F. Kennedy Airport (JFK) to St. Maarten’s Princess Juliana International Airport (SXM) last week. St. Maarten would be the 11th Caribbean destination in JetBlue’s flight offerings. For a limited time, customers will be able to purchase tickets to St. Maarten from New York for $99 one way. This offer expires on the 24th of January 2008, after which prices as low as $154 each way will take effect.

According to Dave Barger, CEO of JetBlue Airways “…we're excited to offer daily year-round fares that are almost 30 percent lower than pre-JetBlue fares from New York to the beautiful island destination of St. Maarten. Lower fares means you have more of your budget to spend in beautiful St. Maarten or one of our 10 other Caribbean destinations."

JeBlue’s presence in the Caribbean is welcomed with open arms by its host countries. The airline will provide an opportunity for US travelers to venture into the islands for less and allow them to spend more on accommodation, food and other activities on the islands. Making access easier will help to boost tourism in the area during a time when the state of the US economy is predicted to have a negative impact on the volume of visitors (see Economics of Travel) in 2008. The US provides the majority of visitors to the Caribbean and a decrease in US visitors translates to a decrease in tourism revenue which are a significant pillar in the economies of the Caribbean.

Given the necessity of tourism in the Caribbean, and the negative impact on revenue due to the downturn in the US economy, more low cost airline will find it easier to negotiate deals with Caribbean airports. The arrival of budget carriers is not a new trend, since 2005 low cost airlines have been flocking to the Caribbean. The reason behind this is due to lack of competition, quick turnaround time, and demand for more service to the islands.

In times when tourism numbers are expected to be slowing the islands might just be able to make up the difference with the help of the low cost revolution in the Caribbean.
Monday, January 21, 2008
Fight Club: India
A trip to Kerala generally means eco-tours, Ayurvedic spas, great seafood and maybe renting out a houseboat on the Backwaters for a week or so. For the more adventurous type there is always learning Kalarippayatt in the heart of its homeland.

Kalarippayatt is a martial art which incorporates kicks, grappling, strikes and weaponry. Healing techniques and martial dance are also within scope of the art. The practice itself has been around for centuries and is believed to be one of the oldest martial arts in the world. Taking part and learning this ancient martial art is open to foreigners and would make for a healthy approach to vacationing in India.

The Indian School of Martial Arts (ISMA) was founded in 1983 and allows travelers to study Kalarippayatt in two Kalaris (gyms), one in Thiruvananthanpuram and at Parasuvackal. You may contact the school for more information at Indian School of Martial Arts, T.C. 15/854, Kalariyil, Sisuvihar Rd., Vazhuthacaud, Thiruvananthapuram, Kerala -695010.

Alternatively, in the village of Cheruthuruthy, Kerala Kalmandalam offers classes early in the morning and into the afternoon. Apart from training in Kalarippayatt, students can learn performing arts such as dancing, acting and vocals, all from a traditional platform. Body massage is also a key aspect of the curriculum.

Interested students must send in their CV to be considered for acceptance and those looking to stay for more than four months will require a student visa. Hostels are available complete with a kitchen, located right next to the center and surrounded by local restaurants. Kalamandalam itself has a cafeteria serving vegetarian food.

If you are unable to join in the training there is always A Day with the Masters, a half day tour of Kalmandalam giving visitors a taste of the local arts.

For more information go to: http://www.kalamandalam.org/

Sunday, January 20, 2008
Chasing the Sunset in Pai
“Do nothing in Pai” – these words are proudly stated t-shirts and postcards on almost every hawker stall at the Pai night market.

We chased the sunset through the winding, steep mountainous road that linked Chiang Mai to Pai and Mae Hong Son.

Route 1095 is a winding rivulet of mountainous driving through some of the most breathtaking scenery in northern Thailand. The view on the drive to Pai, located between Chiang Mai and Mae Hong Son, is especially spectacular during the early morning as the mist lifts off rice paddies and peanut farms into the valley, transforming from layers of grainy black & white into a warm, yellow tinged view.

Apart from standard eco tourism operators and daily tours, Pai does not boast a great selection of daytime tourist activities. It’s nightlife offers the requisite bars and restaurants. The night bazaar – in stark contrast to Chiang Mai’s professional street hawkers, mazes of stalls and armies of vendors – can be toured, combed and raided in under 30 minutes.

VW vans transformed into coffee shops, parked between vendors selling traditionally brewed tea in earthenware pot with tin coverings, offer a glimpse of modernity in this newly discovered town. Boutique hotels and backpacker hostels alternate along the streets. Pai, and most of northern Thailand in fact, is simply a place to unwind, a respite from the non-stop travel backpacker schedule or the hectic city life of Bangkok.

Two hours further north lies Mae Hong Son, the provincial capitol of northern-most Thailand. An hour’s raft ride from Burma, Thai Army presence is inescapable from road checks to soldiers driving up the mountain roads on 50cc motorbikes. When asked if he’d ever been to Burma, our driver succinctly responded, “No because I wouldn’t be let back in.” The border issue in Thailand is a testy subject, from Burmese refugees streaming in from the north to militants exacting violence in the southern province of Yala. Even the owner of an antique store, filled from floor to ceiling with World War II curiosities and Thai and Burmese relics, would not let anyone photograph inside her store, surely due to issues of provenance over these antique items.

The scenic drive to Mae Hong Son is spectacular, and its temples are architecturally stunning. Overlooking Jong Kham Lake is a compound of the temples Hua Wieng, Jong Kham and Jong Klang, which, according to translated signage, were ‘taken’ from the Burmese. The Mae Hong Son population is descendant from Burma (the Shans) or are from the hill tribes of Karen, Lisu, Mhong, Lahu and Lua. All are distinctly different cultures, and continue the heritage, dialect, architecture, and cuisines of their respective ancestors. Mae Hong Son has only been a part of the Thai kingdom for the last 200 years (http://www.maehongsontravel.com/).

The air cooled to a crisp evening, a shock from the comfortable warmth of the afternoon. The trip back to Pai was slow as we carefully drove down the steep roads we had made our way up on to Mae Hong Son. The sun sank slowly into the mountainous peaks of northern Thailand, out of the range of human sight. The van turned another bend of the road, and there it reemerged, the setting sun. I had to photograph it.

The driver switched gears from snails pace and sped on, looking for a safe spot to park so I could jump out of the van and capture the last few seconds of the sunset. Checking for oncoming traffic, I bolted across the road. To the right, a group of Thai tourists posed against the road barrier; their hapless driver shooting with one hand as several small digital cameras dangled by their straps on his other arm. To the left was sheer mountain face and road. For 30 seconds I shot continuously, hoping to capture the fluorescent pink semi-circle as it fell into the horizon. I put my camera down. My father whistled; it was his way of telling me to hurry up and get back in the van. I was told once that, if you watch closely, a flash of green appears when the last bit of the sunset falls behind the earth. I looked, but no flash. I fished the lens cap out of the back pocket of my jeans and gently placed it on my camera.

There may not be much to do in Pai, but at that moment, I saw and felt the beauty of what “nothingness” has to offer.
Saturday, January 19, 2008
Economics of Travel
Hello All,


In previous postings I have talked about the impact of the current state of the world’s economy on international tourism. The drop in value of the US dollar has opened up many opportunities for European and Chinese travelers to explore the US on a cheaper budget. Likewise, the strength of the Euro and the Chinese Yuan has allowed Southeast Asian countries to capitalize on their established tourism infrastructure and attract a record number of tourists in 2007 and the beginning of 2008. My focus now lies on the Caribbean countries which rely heavily on tourism primarily from the US.

With the slow down of the US economy, Caribbean tourist destinations will begin to feel the pinch. Although not the only tourists to visit the Caribbean, American tourists do make up a significant portion of visitors. Caribbean countries will have to focus on visitors from other nations to make up a potential loss in visitor numbers in 2008. The bright side is that economic variables can lead to great traveling opportunities especially for countries with a solid set of natural and cultural attractions.

This is good news for travelers in that, it is when an expected slowdown in tourism in a specific region is around the corner, that we begin to see great deals to those locations that are concerned. Significant marketing efforts will be put into practice in order to attract more visitors and to offset a potential drop in visitor rates. Accessibility and ease of travel are two important variables which affect tourism revenue. Therefore it highly likely that hotels will begin to make special arrangements with traditional travel agents and online travel agents like Expedia will be able to leverage better package deals often combining flight and accommodation prices. Government tourism agencies will create travel campaigns making the country’s cultural heritage and renowned sites easily accessible to tourists. Take for example Thailand’s Amazing Thailand campaign, a reaction to the 1997 Asian crisis which eventually created a completely new tourism platform which its infrastructure is now based upon. Another example is New York City’s free bike rides campaign where tourists could get a free bike ride to locations around the city.

The continuing decline of the US economy will continue to put pressure on American’s travel budgets and on Caribbean tourism revenues throughout the year. Although not as evident now, marketing efforts will begin to roll out around mid year given the fact that the major travel season is over and travel plans for the Christmas ’07 season were planned before the US dollar declined heavily. My advice to some of you looking to get away to the Caribbean islands this year; keep an eye open for good deals over the next few months, book around spring for trips in the summer to maximize value.










Happy Travels!


Seb
Wednesday, January 16, 2008
A New Persepolis?
A project started on December 31st 2007 by Iran’s Archeology Research Center and Australia’s Sydney University has announced the discovery of the ruins of an Achaemenid city while excavating near Nourabad Mamasani in Iran. Columns over a meter wide decorated with lotus designs and palm-leaf grooves, reminiscent of those found in Persepolis, were found in addition to a hall and marble staircase.

The Achaemenid Persian Empire was the first Persian of all the Persian empires to rule a significant portion of Iran. Its most famous emperor is Xerxes, who came very close to conquering Ancient Greece. The Achaemenid Empire was overthrown by Alexander the Great in 330BC. Among their accomplishments were the freeing of the Israelites from Babylon and instituting Aramaic.

There has been no announcement of opening up the site to the public as of yet. This discovery is the second discovery of a large ruin since December 2007. The other was in Peru (see An Incan Fortress Stands Tall­).

Culture Jump
Bridging adventure and custom can be a fulfilling experience. It allows travelers to involve themselves with the locals and get their blood running at the same time. Three hours from Sarajevo, Bosnia is the city of Mostar. It is famous historically for being a cultural crossroads allowing easy access between Europe and Turkey, bringing together different cultures which often meant the bumping of heads.

The star of the show, so to speak, is the Old Bridge (Stari Most). Originally built in 1566 by the Ottoman Turks, it was rebuilt in 2004 after having been bombed in 1993. The bridge has been declared a World Heritage Site by UNESCO.

Centuries before the hostilities in the 1990’s, residents of Mostar have held a tradition; jumping into the Neretva River, which runs through the city and separates east from west from the Stari Most. Before the original bridge was built over 450 years ago, the daring few would jump from building tops and into the river. Although the height of the jump at that time is unknown, from the bridge today, it is a 21 meter (69 foot) dive into the Neretva.

Bridge diving is more organized now in Mostar. The Mostar Diving Club resides on the western side of the new bridge and facilitates bridge diving every summer. It costs 25 Euro per dive and upon completion you are awarded a certificate. It is highly recommended that you pay the club as they have been known to become very upset if you do not check in with them first. It is, after all, their bridge.

Other sites to note in the Mostar area are the Ottoman mosques, the mix of culture seen through the city’s architecture, the Adriatic is near by and worth going to for a day, and most notably is the Muslibegovica House. It is a 300 year old Bosnian national monument and is considered to be one of the most beautiful houses built by the Ottomans still standing today. It is a sight best appreciated once your heartbeat has caught up with you, after having left it at the top of the bridge.



Photos Courtesy of Bosnia and Herzegovina Tourism Board

Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Safari Done Right


Finding a tour operator which minimizes its carbon footprint is one issue, but finding one that integrates locals into the tourism system in which in operates is like finding a mythical beast. Just today, Nairobi-based safari operators African Latitude has announced the launch of its community based tourism program in Kenya. The essential goal of the program is for the Masai people to learn the skill sets and competencies required to manage African Latitude, eventually leading the outfitter to become fully run by the Masai people.

According to Robyn Boyd, owner of African Latitude, “This community lodge is the first of an entirely new tourism circuit which will bring benefit and employment to the local communities,” Given Kenya’s current political state and the high rate of tourists and expatriates leaving or avoiding the country, Kenya needs some form of hope. Programs such as these can help assert Kenya’s role as a leader in East Africa. “This circuit will link different communities bordering conservation areas and national parks in East Africa and encourage the communities to create their own conservation projects with the ultimate objective of helping them reap economic benefit from wildlife protection.”

African Latitude has been in the safari business for well over twenty years and has recently been ranked as one of National Geographic Adventure’s top ten safari outfitters in the world. The key to their success lies within their close ties to the community and directly involving the Masai in their operations and benefits of those operations. In addition, African Latitudes creates a safari experience off of the beaten paths to fully immerse their clients in culture and wildlife.

Ties to the Masai have already met with great success. After years of working with the Masai, African Latitudes proudly presents the first female Masai guide in all of Kenya. This is a breakthrough in that it is rare for a Masai woman to not follow the traditional path expected of females. It is the first step in many, proving that following a model of sustainability is possible – that rare mythical beast.


Cruisin' Cloud 9
A romantic getaway could be a weekend in a hotel where you and your beloved spend three days on cloud nine. What if it actually was cloud nine? Presenting, in association with French National Aerospace Research, Jean Marie Massaud’s Manned Cloud; a flying eco-friendly hotel which gently tours various exotic locations around the world over a three day period. Imagine watching the wildebeests' migration on the Kalahari, the humpback whales in the Sea of Cortez or perhaps Paris, the city of lights, all from above.

The whale-shape design of the air-ship-hotel offers sixty rooms for guests, a cruising speed of 135km/h, and top speed of 175 km/h with a range of 5,000km. Guests’ experience in the sky can be enjoyed at the restaurant, library or at the fitness suite and spa. Instead of hydrogen, which has met with disastrous consequences during the age of zeppelins, the Manned Cloud will rely on helium to raise it to the skies and three propellers for thrust.

In addition to maintaining a small carbon footprint, the Manned Cloud can access untouched, pristine areas of the world without disrupting the eco-systems at all. The service will be offered as early as 2009, so keep an eye out for a gigantic white whale in the sky.

Monday, January 14, 2008
An Incan Fortress Stands Tall
In the midst of questioning what to do about the crumbling king of Peruvian ruins, Machu Picchu, (see Thoughts on Ecotourism) a new Incan ruin has been discovered and declared an ecotourism site. Guillermo Torres, mayor of the town of Kimbiri (Cusco), has announced the discovery of Manco Pata, an ancient fortress located in a rural community near the village of Lobo Tahuantinsuyo.

The 40,000 square meter fortress is believed to be a part of the lost citadel of Paiti an Incan city-state. Large, concealed structures found after clearing a brush led to the discovery of the fortress on December 29th

According to legend, Paiti was the refuge of Inkarri, a legendary hero who founded Q’ero and Cuzco, the Imperial City. Inkarri retreated to the jungles of Pantiacolla, into his lost citadel.

The site was immediately declared a cultural heritage and, just as quickly, will be brought to the limelight of Peru’s tourism portfolio. The ancient fortress is sure to be a tourism hotspot in 2008, especially for those looking to get away from the heavily visited ruins which have already become a staple in the tourism circuit. Manco Pata may not relieve Machu Picchu of the heavy tourist flow it receives regularly, but what Manco Pata can provide is an opportunity to start fresh and to find a better way of balancing tourism and sustainability.

The idea of seeing something new and never before seen has always been a vital ingredient to an adventure. It evokes the sense of discovery established by the golden age of travel and archaeological discovery. Traveling through the thick brush and being the first of many visitors to lay eyes on the fortress should be on the top of any traveler's list while in Peru.

Saturday, January 12, 2008
Marketing to China

With the agreement between the Chinese and the US governments to allow increased tourism marketing (see Cash Flows through China and Into the US) comes the market research. The Travel Industry Association (TIA), The Alfred P. Sloan Foundation Travel and Tourism Center at the University of South Carolina and the Office of Travel and Tourism Industries/U.S. Department of Commerce, are to conduct the one of the largest studies on Chinese travelers. The purpose is to gain a better understanding of how the Chinese travel with an end goal of catering to their travel needs.

“China is a critically important travel market to the United States,” according to Roger Dow, President and Chief Executive Officer of the TIA, “We know that improvements to America’s visa and entry experience and better communication of our travel policies are at the top of the Chinese travelers’ agenda, but there is much more we need to learn about the travel preferences of these important visitors.”

Chinese Tourists spend the highest amount of money while visiting the US, approximately $6,000 per visit each, when compared to travelers from other countries. This research will be a large effort in understanding preferences, attitudes, spending habits and behaviors and factors which contribute to where they decide to visit within the US.

This study is a testament of how much impact tourism now has in the world economy. With currencies moving in favor of Europe and Asia, the US can look to travelers for cash influx to help the current state of the US economy.

Friday, January 11, 2008
Volcanic Tuna
I awoke on the bow of our sport fisher early in the morning, covered in a layer of ash and barely able to open my eyes. Looking straight up into the solid grey sky, the Indian Ocean seemed more like a cold Nordic sea complete with dark waters, mist and a morning sky heavy with moisture.

Being covered with ash is the price we paid for the spectacular fireworks show on the previous night, courtesy of Anak Krakatau. Anak Krakatau, which means Child of Krakatau, was created by the massive explosion Krakatau in 1883 located on the Sunda Straight, Indonesia.

The explosion was so violent that not only did it destroy two thirds of the island of Krakatau, but was heard in Perth, Australia about 3,000 miles (5,000km) away. A 19th century drawing on the left shows what the original Karakatau looked like.

During the day, as we trailed our fishing lines around the Ujon Kulon islands, the volcano provided only smoke. As soon as the sun set, bright streaks of orange flew out of A. Krakatau’s crater lighting up an outline of the island with its molten fireworks. The dark waters lit up each time the lava gushed out of the volcano. Despite being miles away we could already smell the sulfur and knew a shower of ash would soon be upon us and continue into the early morning.

After shaking the spectacular memory of the previous night, sitting up I noticed that the entire bow was covered in ash which was mixed with a little bit of salt water, creating a very slick surface. My thick hair, already matted from haven only taken saltwater showers for the past four days, was cemented in place with the addition of the grey ash. I look over at Mel and Mark, still asleep, their faces too were completely covered with a thin layer of grey. We chose to sleep on the bow after realizing how hot the cabins were at night. It is amazing, despite our distance from the mainland or any island for that matter, how mosquitoes will still be able to hunt you down.


The ship was docked at a private pier in Pelabuhanratu, a seaside town frequented by foreigners on the south western part of Java; about four hours drive from Jakarta. From there we had made our way west around the western tip of Java, into the Sunda Straight which divided Java from Sumatra. On the straight, we passed the islands of Panaitan, Krakatau, Sebesi and Sangiang before making a brief cameo in the Java Sea and returning to follow the coast of Lampung before heading back to port. There was only one objective for this trip; sport fishing. Sightseeing and snorkeling were just an added feature.

Our first day had consisted primarily of preparations and testing gear. In all honesty I did not know much about the ship or the fishing equipment that we had on board. We did have lots of lures, a spear gun, belts to attach fishing rods to, and of course the fishing chairs which we fastened ourselves into and to which I owe my life. There were numerous occasions when I could have easily been pulled under by a fish but it was a fight against a yellow fin tuna on the sixth day which nearly got the best of me.

The crew consisted of Hans, the Swiss captain and his Indonesian deck hands and of course, the first mate who knew all the best fishing spots and understood the waters best. He would have been the captain had Hans not been the one to commission the building of the boat in the first place. Along for the ride were Mark, Mel and Armin, Mark and Mel being young and inexperienced like myself and Armin a more seasoned fisherman. It was obvious from the get go who were the ones to pull up the majority of the fish.

Armin was first to catch a rainbow tuna on day two. It was a 45 min fight which presented what seemed like more pain that I had ever imagined fishing could produce. Sitting on the chair, we watch as his forehead turned a bright red and veins protruded from his forearms. Well placed profanities in Swiss-German, German and English streamed forth from the Swiss man like the fiery lava from Krakatau. His fishing pole seemed like it were going to break in half.

Once the fish was brought on deck it was instantly cut up and fried. The insides were saved for use as bait. Our diet consisted primarily of what we fished, rice and instant noodles cooked in salt water. All the salt forced us to drink more fresh water, which we had just enough of to last the full seven days. It was quite the diet and trust me, I lost many pounds in seven days especially after my round on the fishing chair.

The night before my encounter with the yellow fin, our boat was being tossed around by huge waves. The hull would slam against the water so hard it made sleep impossible, and anything that was not tied down went overboard. Water made its way onto the deck and in addition to the ash, created a slick, muddy paste which coated just about everything.

Around ten thirty in the morning on the following day, we hear the reel of my fishing pole scream “Zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz!!” as the line was being pulled; it was time. I put on the leather fishing belt, sat on the chair and was instructed not to fight back until the “zzzzzzzzzzz” had stopped or until the reel only made the noise intermittently. The first mate explained that a tuna had taken the bait and it was the nature of the tuna to bite and then dive deep. He basically was telling me to relax because I had a long fight ahead of me. The reel stopped spinning and I began the fight, one of the crew members slowed the boat down and I pulled the pole up, and reeled in on the way down in a rocking motion over and over. At first I thought it was easy, that is, until the fish realized what I was doing at which point he decided to fight back.

Halfway through the ordeal, my shoulders, biceps, triceps and forearms seemed to be on fire. Muscles that I had never known about started to hurt and the morning heat began to position itself right above me. It took an hour to reel the fish in and about a week to recover. It was my one and only catch, and I was happy with that fact. Nothing was more satisfying, than to be handed a square inch of fresh red sashimi at the end of the fight.

Collectively we pulled in a good haul. Barracuda, flounder, tuna and mackerel were our primary catches. We brought trash bags of fish home and seafood was the theme at the dinner table for weeks thereafter.

By the time we reached mainland again, I was thoroughly dark – my Asian skin turning a deep brown, my hair changed into a very light brown, I smelled horribly (which made the four hour trip to Jakarta almost unbearable) and the rhythmic feeling of being pushed around by the waves dominated my sense of balance. A week later I still looked the same, I smelled better and slept better because the reminiscent feeling of being on the ocean would rock me to sleep.

Wednesday, January 09, 2008
Hopeful Thoughts For Kenya
Hello Everyone,

Over the past few weeks I have been watching the political crisis in Kenya closely simply because Kenya has been Africa’s flagship of stability for quite a while and also because of Kenya’s dominance of the African tourism industry. With all the violence and intense upheaval, I thought that shining some hope on the country would keep us travelers from turning away from such a beautiful place.

It is not far fetched to say that when people think of African art and an African safari people are thinking of Kenya, that when the west thinks of African tribes they think of the Masai tribe. This cultural projection is the result of having the raw materials of a huge tourism industry; stunning flora and fauna coupled with beautiful cultures. This is why I believe Kenya cannot be ignored and, given the right conditions will be able to restore itself as an African tourism center in no time.

It comes down to access and infrastructure. These two factors, I believe, will benefit from the international exposure which Kenya has. Having been one of the more politically stable countries in Africa, Kenya has been able to position itself as a major logistical and economic center in East Africa. Transportation of many goods pass through Kenya as well as military supplies. The current state of the country is disrupting the operations of both.

At moment, the turmoil is holding back UN peacekeepers that are intended to be deployed to Somalia because of fuel supplies which are typically brought through Kenya. In addition, Kenya has positioned itself as an ally to the US in the war on terrorism, providing the US with suspected terrorists and allowing the US military access into the country. Kenya also allows the US armed forces the use of its military bases for training and operations. It is this exposure that lures leaders from western nations to try and encourage a resolution to the electoral disputes and will undoubtedly succeed.

So where does this leave tourism? The tourism industry will come roaring back to life once the political turmoil has passed. Countries like England will lift travel bans and will allow its citizens to return. Fewer regulations on businesses and foreign investment will be imposed in an effort to rebuild infrastructure on almost every level. Overall, things will get back to normal, but travelers must not be afraid to go back to Kenya.

It is one of the most prized destinations on many travelers’ “Must Go To” list and should be kept that way.






Sincerely,


Seb
Tuesday, January 08, 2008
Isla Moda
Fashion Island in Las Vegas is a misnomer, it is not an island at all, but Dubai Infinity Holdings (DIH) is looking to make such an island a reality. Isla Moda is a real fashion island combining haute couture boutiques, luxury hospitality facilities including a fashion resort and themed residential villas. Think Rodeo Drive meets St. Tropez on an island.

Isla Moda will be set in The World islands, an engineering feat in its own right. It is a development project focused on creating an array of island parcels organized to look like a map of the world from a bird’s eye view.

DIH hopes that Isla Moda will make Dubai a new fashion center like New York and Milan. Luxury has long made a home in Dubai and is heavily incorporated into the Isla Moda theme. Take for example the residential “collection” which boasts stylish villas and limited edition villas which offer private beaches and beautiful views. The idea is to be able to create your own customized “couture home.”

If you just want to visit, Hotel Moda offers 250 rooms and serviced apartments and of course boutiques from every major designer across the globe. If you are having a hard time deciding where to spend your money, Isla Moda offers concierge service for guests and residents from clothing to art to technology.

A little too much? Well, if you are going to re-create the world out of island parcels, I’m sure there is a space for everything and everyone, so long as you can afford it.

Monday, January 07, 2008
Welcome to Fiji!! Is this the Bathroom?
So imagine you are on an international flight to Fiji, enjoying the view when suddenly a warm yellow liquid is coming at you from above. Fear takes hold, you look up, is it petrol? You are speechless, and everything about what is happening is appalling. A large Fijian soldier is peeing on you. This is what happened to a Japanese tourist on her way to paradise.

Japan is an extremely lucrative market for any tourist destination. The Japanese have money and want to spend it, and generally do so to a great degree. It is also important to note the Japanese culture’s obsession with cleanliness is a paramount trait to consider when targeting their demographic. So imagine the impact this incident has had on tourism revenue coming in from Japan in addition to the December 5th coup which has already caused many Japanese operators to shut down tours in Fiji. Japan does not take lightly to political turmoil.

This incident carries a plain and simple message to the Fijian tourism industry; it is time to clean up. No more hustling visitors at the entrance of the airport, no more cabbies ripping off tourists and not locals and definitely no more peeing on people please!

Sunday, January 06, 2008
Vive Les Musées
If you think the line at the Louvre in Paris is long at the moment, brace yourself because it is probably going to get a lot longer. French national museums, including the Louvre, will allow free admission to their permanent collections from now until June 30th 2008 as a part of an experiment to boost the number of visitors.

The idea is to attract more locals to the museums, but foreign visitors are welcome to enjoy the same benefits. This experiment’s ultimate goal is to attract as many visitors as possible and will cost the French government and private donors an estimated $320 million in lost ticket sales.

Britain allowed free museum admission to their national museums in 2001 which led to a significant increase in attendees. Hopefully the results are the same in France. Bring extra snacks and books to keep busy while in line.

Speluuuuuuuuuuuuuuuuunk!
There is a certain level of insanity required for spelunking. Perhaps the printer at work can bring it out in a person, I am not sure. If jumping into the unknown like Batman is your bag, El Sótano de las Golondrinas (Cave of Swallows) in the rainforest of San Luis Potosí, Mexico is your oyster.

The Cave of Swallows, named for its winged inhabitants, has a circular opening measuring approximately 160 by 250ft leading to a room that is 995 by 440 feet. The distance from the opening of the cave to the cave floor comes to a total of 1094 feet, this is the low point. The high point allows for a 1220 foot freefall which makes this cave the 11th deepest cave in the world.

Due to the large opening of the cave it is perfect for BASE jumpers and cavers. Although it is quite the challenge for cavers in general, just imagine having to climb back up this monster. There are already adventure companies that have established operations to get you into and out of the cave. This development has been vey positive for the locals who live around the area since there was no opportunity for employment in the past.

The area is untouched by tourism and therefore being eco-conscious is very important. For this reason there is only one point of entry for cavers at the opening. This specific spot has all the bolts and equipment attached to the opening ready to accommodate all cavers.

There is only one way to get to this area and that is by 4WD on an unpaved single lane road which lead